February 18: Hong Kong

With an 18 hour lay-over in Hong Kong between New Zealand and Indonesia, we decided to head into the city for the night (no, Hong Kong is not even remotely on the way between these two countries but according to our plane ticket it is).

Getting from the airport to city central was a mind boggling lesson in efficiency. $8 and one easy 15 minute high speed subway ride later we arrived. Coming back to the airport they actually will let you check into the flight and leave your baggage at the in-town stop before boarding the subway.

Wanting to keep within our lodging budget, we ended up being routed to "The Mansion". The mansion is a decrepit high rise building set in the center of the upscale Kowloon neighborhood. Each floor of the building is filled with several guesthouses each and we estimated there were approximately 5,000 beds inside. Expecting to the overrun with young Western backpackers, we were surprised by the international face of The Mansion's residents -- African and Middle Eastern predominantly -- many of whom seemed to be living in the building semi-permanently. A man who ran several of the guesthouses toured us around showing us numerous rooms which looked exactly the same but which he quoted for different prices. Each had two small single beds with a miniscule bathroom, the faint stale scent of curry wafting in through the windows. When asked why this one was more expensive his response was "more cleaner". We survived the night but have decided that if we return to Hong Kong we may be spending some of our precious Starwood points on a real hotel room. Somehow "roughing it" in a large city doesn't have the romatic appeal that it carries in the country side.

Aside from "The Mansion", Hong Kong was a great short stop. Vibrantly alive with colors and lights. The energy of a chaotic international hub where squalid dim sum joints sit next to lavish four star hotels. After perusing the latest technology for sale, we took advantage of the international cuisine with some great sushi and then headed back to the airport early the next morning.